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The Literary Landmark Tour

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Key West, Wallace Stevens once wrote in a letter, "is the real thing... the sweetest doing nothing contrived". Ernest Hemingway, tipped off by John Dos Passos, who described it as "looking like something in a dream", stopped over in 1928. A parade of writers, poets and songwriters have followed in Hemingway’s footsteps.

Tennessee Williams House / 1431 Duncan Street


Tennessee Williams first came to Key West in l941, because I liked to swim and because Key West was the southernmost point in America. He was thirty years old, and the masterpieces A Streetcar Named Desire, Summer and Smoke, Suddenly Last Summer, and Camino Real were just around the corner. He once wrote: It (Key West) was a mecca for painters and writers in 1941. I met the poet Elizabeth Bishop and artist Grant Wood there that winter... There was a genteel boarding house called The Trade Winds. It was operated by a grand dame from Georgia... She suddenly remembered that she had a little shack in the back of the house that could be converted into living quarters for me... The rent was seven dollars a week.

In 1949 Tennessee Williams bought a story and a half, white clapboard, red-shuttered Bahamian cottage which he moved to the town’s outskirts. Here he fashioned a compound, which included a spare one-room writing studio he called Mad House, and a guest cottage with a swimming pool. (A mosaic rose tattoo was tiled on the pool’s floor!).

Richard Wilbur, John Ciardi, John Hersey, Ralph Ellison / Windsor Lane Compound, Windsor Lane Just past Solares Hill, the island’s highest peak l6 feet above sea level to the left, and hidden behind the white stucco wall, is a collection of once run-down shacks and shanties, frame cottages perched upon limestone piers, later restored as the winter residences of such literary luminaries as poet Richard Wilbur, critic John Ciardi, writer Ralph Ellison and Hiroshima author John Hersey. There are several literati compounds in Old Town,and this complex, established in 1976, with its landscaped walkways and a central pool, is one of the most charming. Wilbur won the Pulitzer Prize for poetry and is renowned for his translations of Moliere; Ciardi, a critic, also translated Dante’s Divine Comedy; Ralph Ellison wrote The Invisible Man; and John Hersey, taught at Yale for 18 years and won the Pulitzer Prize for his writing debut, A Bell for Adano.

 

Elizabeth Bishop Houses / 624 White (and others)


On her first visit to Key West, Elizabeth Bishop rented an apartment from Mrs. Pinder, a friendly landlady, at 529 Whitehead Street. For Elizabeth Bishop, however, one of America’s most highly acclaimed contemporary poets, home from 1938 to 1946 became a weathered nineteenth century clapboard Eyebrow house at 624 White Street. In 1941, to save money, Bishop rented her White Street place to Navy personnel and roomed with Marjori Carr Stevens at 623 Margaret Street. Living in out of the way places appealed to her, as she wrote in The End of March: I wanted to get as far as my proto-dream-house my crypto-dream house that crooked box set up on pilings, shingled green, a sort of an artichoke of a house, but greener... . (Many things about this place are dubious).
While in Key West, the poet would plant her gardens, swim, fish, write, paint and bicycle. Later, in December 1948, Elizabeth Bishop found an apartment at 611 Frances Street: large with a screened porch up in a tree, and a view of endless waves of tin roofs and palm trees. Bishop’s life included stays in Mexico, Europe, North Africa, Key West and Brazil. She was awarded the 1955 Pulitzer Prize for North and South A Cold Spring, a National Book Award for Questions of Travel (1967) and The Complete Poems (1970).

Shel Silverstein Home / 600 block
William Two dwellings, side by side on William Street, were beautifully restored by gifted author-cartoonist-songwriter Shel Silverstein. He resided with practiced anonymity in Key West and Sausalito. Behind sheltering banyan roots stand a Greek Revival house and Shel’s studio next door. Author of a litany of books, Silverstein’s blockbuster A Light in the Attic perched at the top of the Best Seller list for over three years.

 

James L. Herlihy House / 709 Baker’s Lane


Best known for his 1964 novel Midnight Cowboy, the film version of which made Dustin Hoffman a star, Herlihy called Key West home for two decades. Two of his earlier works, the play Blue Denim and the novel All Fall Down, became movies. He and agent Dick Duane introduced Tallulah Bankhead to the island. Clad in flowery pedalpushers, she could sometimes be seen at Fausto’s Food Palace. Herlihy wrote of Key West: You see people on the streets all night long. Sailors alone and in twos and threes. Latin dandies in pleated shirts, black-haired women at their elbows, drunken shrimpers... . And for every person you see, you will feel as sharply the presence of several invisible souls. For the town is plainly haunted. Lazy ghosts of old inhabitants rock forever on all the empty porches, and others watch over the street from shutters at second story windows. If you do not believe in ghosts, the town will make you nervous.... Herlihy lived here on Baker’s Lane until he left Key West in the late l970’s, saying that Key West was becoming too technicolor. He died in 1993.

 

James Kirkwood House / Conch Grove compound / Catherine and Grinnell


The son of silent screen star Lila Lee, Kirkwood is best remembered as the co-author of the record-setting l976 Broadway musical, A Chorus Line. His novels included P.S. Your Cat is Dead, Good Times, Bad Times and Some Kind of Hero. Kirkwood was one of the original home owners in this first compound.

Key West’s circle of literati also includes Harry S Truman, Joseph Lash, Wallace Stevens, John Dewey, Robert Frost, Alison Lurie, Annie Dillard, Jimmy Buffett, Ann Beattie, and Robert Stone.