Tour the "dead center" of old town
on the CemetEry Tour |
“I Told You I was Sick”, “Devoted
Fan of Julio Iglesias” and other popular inscriptions… Key
West’s Historic 1847 Cemetery is located in the “dead” center
of Old Town, bounded by Angela, Margaret, Passover Lane
(appropriately named), Frances and Olivia. The cemetery
was moved to higher ground after the 1847 hurricane disinterred
bodies from an earlier “bone yard” at the southernmost
point. Port inspector Stephen Mallory reported: “The
effects of the hurricane were terrible. The grave yard
... was entirely washed away and the dead were scattered
throughout the forest, many of them lodged in trees.” These
whitewashed above-ground tombs and statues are fascinating.
A stroll through this historic graveyard reflects as much
about Key West’s quirky character as any history
lesson. The graveyard, still active, contains over 75,000
burials.
Each element on a grave has meaning. Victorian-era gravestone
symbols include the calla lily (majestic beauty); lily
of the valley (bride); a lamb or cherub (death of a child);
urn (death of an adult); wreaths (eternity); rose (love);
ivy (immortality); and clasped hands (farewell and friendship).
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The main entry gates open at the corner of Margaret
and Angela streets.
To begin—walk straight to the first corner at Palm and Magnolia
Avenues. To the right: the crisply restored U.S.S. Maine Plot, dedicated
on March 15, 1900, is circumscribed by an ornate wrought iron fence.
The scrolled, black grillwork encircles a solitary bronze sailor, who
overlooks the plain, white marble markers honoring the 27 sailors killed.
Walk northeast along Palm Avenue toward twin white posts
that mark the entry to the 1868 Catholic Cemetery. En
route, at the corner of Violet Street, you’ll pass
by an 1892 metal archway with the inscription “A
Los Martires de Cuba” (To the Cuban Martyrs). This
sacred plot is marked by a tall, grey marble obelisk.
The names etched there and carved into the open books
represent a symbolic memorial to the slain heroes of
the unsuccessful 1868 Cuban insurrection against Spain.
The sole body entombed here is that of Cuban Consul Antonio
Diaz Carrasco, buried in 1915.
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Continuing along Palm Avenue, look to your left toward
Angela Street, you may spot the unusual statue of a naked “bound
woman,” at the 1966 tomb of Archibald Yates. Enter
the Catholic sector, and the grand Toppino Mausoleum stands
before you. Toppino and Sons Construction paved the Overseas
Highway from Miami. The family plot of Eduardo H. Gato,
a leader of the American cigar industry, is marked by a
granite cross and lies near the central Priests’ Plot.
While Gato himself was lain to rest in Cuba, his wife Mercedes
(1847-1903) was buried here.
Nearby, the headstone of E. Lariz (1923-1986) reads “Devoted
Fan of Singer Julio Iglesias.” Exit this section
and walk southeast along Laurel Street. You will pass
an expansive bricked lot featuring three pink granite
sarcophagi memorializing three Yorkshire terriers and
a statue of Elfina, a pet deer, along with members of
the prominent Otto family. Dr. Otto, who hailed from
Prussia, served as a medical officer at Fort Jefferson.
Continue along Laurel to Seventh Avenue. Turn left and
look for the black archway with the letters “B’nai
Zion” marking the Jewish Cemetery entry. To your
immediate left is the most visited spot, a large white
crypt with a facing tablet inscribed “I Told You
I was Sick.” B. Pearl Roberts was a local hypochondriac.
Reverse direction; walk southwest along Seventh Ave.,
and note the uplifted marble casket of P. Piedad L.F.
de Ayala, a small Cuban woman whose grandfather penned
the national anthem of Cuba. Just across Sixth Avenue
and beneath the towering ficus, a marble headstone, to
D. Kaufelt, has been engulfed by century-old tree roots.
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Continue along Sixth Avenue, to view a 100-year old
example of the Everlast Company’s cast metal marker
of “white bronze,” at Susan Johnson’s
(d. 1907) gravesite. Walk southeast on Violet Street to
discover the box tomb of Sloppy Joe Russell, Key West’s
famed barkeep who died while fishing off Cuba with Hemingway
(1890-1941). It is located on Eighth behind a painted eternal
flame. Reverse direction and follow Violet to Fourth Avenue.
Turn left (southwest). Find the white marble stone marking
the grave of Thomas Romer, a black Bahamian, a War
of 1812 privateersman and “good citizen for 65 of his 108 years!” It
is signed by Gallagher, a local nineteenth century stone cutter.
On Second Avenue, the impressive gray marble shaft that
rises tall (minus its toppled urn) marks the final resting
place of William Curry, a Bahamian emigrant and reputedly
Florida’s first millionaire. Continue walking northeast
along Second Avenue past the plot of General Abraham
Lincoln Sawyer, a 40-inch midget. Self-titled, Sawyer
(1862-1939) traveled with carnivals. His final wish was
to be buried in a full-size tomb. Finally, at the intersection
of Magnolia: to the left lies the Harris Family Plot,
where a child’s grave is decorated with a small
white angel. Key West’s graveyard is a spot illumined
by time, tropics and history. Indeed it is somehow one
of the most alive spots in Key West. TOP
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